‘In the Mood for China’ EZegna A/W Collection 2011-12

Some men live between two worlds, carrying in themselves a blend of West and East just as perfectly balanced as Yin and Yang. You can find them in Europe or America, although business, love or destiny will inevitably set their path towards the East.

Ermenegildo Zegna celebrates these fascinating and deeply contemporary individuals by devoting the 2011-12 Fall/Winter collection to China, a country very well known to the brand: Zegna arrived there first 20 years ago, and has been successfully established ever since.

The Chinese ability for shaping their destiny serves as an inspiration for rigorous clothes, borrowing some of their appeal from Chinese Revolution uniforms and mixing it with the flawless and hypermasculine style of 1940s clothing. Their sober palette can be seen as a perfect passport for travelling to far countries and distant cultures. Anthracite greys turning to black, tea and mahogany tones ranging from red to brown and touches of bamboo green, revealing unexpected, shiny silk details woven with the image of a celebrated piece of classical Chinese art. This unique detail, more or less visible, rendered in lacquer red or bronze, is the trademark of the entire collection.

Silhouettes are defined by straight shouldered three-button suits and jackets, as well as streamlined high-cuff trousers, to be worn with snug raglan overcoats. The sporting attitude is echoed by utility touches and tweed-effect or macro Prince of Wales fabrics. Moving away from their usual roughness, Zegna reinvents them as sumptuous, bi-color “Cashmere Duo”.

The new ”Cashco Goffrato” waffle fabric makes its debut, interweaving worn-looking cotton and wool. Paying homage to the Chinese theme, the collection's only wool pinstripe, the “15milmil15”, hints at the shape of bamboo canes.

The outerwear is nonchalant and practical, with waxed cotton and leather peacoats, as well as buffed-off shearling duffle coats. Many hand-crafted cashmere sweaters, some of them with suede embroideries, also inspired from the imperial painting.

To our man, the day is a time for action and conquest, whereas the night brings along the well-deserved pleasures of a new lifestyle. That's when he can rediscover his own refinement and sensuality and, protected by retro evening glasses, embrace the elusive mysteries of nightlife.Zegna's tailoring excellence provides him with silk satin and velvet garments in cuts that are both sexy and sophisticated, silk ottoman long jackets with an additional light padding in the daring kimono-cut version, lined with the same color print silk that can be found in the small button collar shirts.

Smart echoes of oriental themes enrich the accessories, like the leather combat-type boot with a slightly upcurved tip and the ‘slipper-like’ shoe, both with a hand-finished thick sole. Dedicated to globetrotters are iPad shoulder cases, waist pouches and new upgraded belts with useful solutions for techno-gadgets. Holdall bags come in printed leather, and the “Duo Ties” contain a hidden Zegna seal in Chinese handwriting.

Along the River During the Qingming Festival by Zhang Zeduan – circa 1100 – is a panoramic painting depicting the country and city everyday life of artisans and aristocrats in China.